Toughen Up
Not for Tender Feet
No nets, no opposing team, no score keeping… Cane ball probably won’t catch on in the west. If it is possible to have a noncompetitive sport, that sport would be cane ball. In Myanmar it is called chinlone, and a Red Cross colleague in Yangon said his friends call it Ninja Volleyball. The game consists of one team of six players who pass a woven rattan ball around in a circle using their heads, knees and feet. One player stands in the middle of the circle to perform solo, supported by those in the outer circle. Play stops once the ball has touched the ground before starting again as a new round.
I’ve only seen it played barefoot in hard dirt and a Myanmar colleague explained that the players use six main points of contact with the ball: the top of the toes; the sole of the foot; the instep and outstep of the foot; the heel; and the knee. Ouch!
There are also rules about how the nonplaying body parts must be positioned, but it sounded complicated. I picked up a cane ball at a market to get the heft, and it is so hard that players’ feet must be very tough. The players were intensely focused—no multitasking or texting possible. It is gripping to watch because any moment you expect someone will drop the ball. Cane ball. You heard it here first!
I Miss It — Don’t Miss It
I wanted to grab Glen’s hand to cross the street, thinking a driver might hesitate to take out two pedestrians at one time. But I pulled back my hand not wanting to offend—our Red Cross security handbook stressed, “No public displays of affection.”“Keep a steady pace with me,” Glen said, “and give the driver time to avoid hitting you, like with the cyclo drivers in Vietnam and Thailand.” That’s when I realized we had not seen even one motorcycle in Yangon. The ban on private car ownership was lifted in 2011 and used cars from Japan with right hand steering wheels clogged the right-hand drive — like in America— streets. It was the endless stream of cars we had been dodging. Suddenly it felt strange to be in a large Asian city and not terrorized by motorcycles.Our colleagues at the Red Cross delegation could not tell us why, just that motorcycles had been banned from Yangon. Perhaps a college age Myanmar woman I met at a restaurant might be willing to take a guess, but she shrugged, “My sister told me the ruling general’s daughter died in a motorcycle accident.” Her boyfriend said, “No, that was just a rumor. I think it is because before the military rule ended in 2015, a biker threatened a general with a finger-gun and escaped too easy on his motorcycle.”In other words, the people who really know why aren’t saying! Not that I want to negotiate more traffic on these streets, but it is curious.
Almsround
Everything a Buddhist monk owns or consumes is supposed to be donated, and every morning monks leave the monastery on an “alms round” to collect their meal of the day. They carry a big bowl and collect alms - mostly cooked food - from people in their community. Monks are not supposed to eat any food after 12:00, so that is the only meal they will consume all day. However, the monks seem to have plenty of food in their bowls, as donors receive "merit" that eventually helps him or her achieve release from the cycle of rebirth. A state that some call Nirvana.Glen and I have seen small numbers (1-12) monks walking in line collecting alms in the morning but returning from our training work today in late afternoon, close to 1,000 monks passed in line receiving food and small monetary donations from people along the road. It was a special parade sponsored by the government which happens only once a month. Lucky timing!